Broken Exhaust Valve

Driving home from work and BANG, stem broke on #4 exhaust valve, engine was done after 115k miles.

I pulled a spare longblock from a 411 4-door automatic parts car (ebay $25) out from under tarp. When the engine was turned with spark plugs in, there was good compression. I figured I had nothing to loose, so I decided to install it and see how it ran. After draining oil/water from engine, replacing front seal, installing new needle bearing, swapping induction system/flywheel/clutch from 2-door, setting valves, and charging battery, it started right up! Proceeded to rev it for a few minutes to blow out the oil then set timing and idle. It runs strong and leak free! Hopefully long enough to get a proper rebuild going...

I also took the chance to replace the intake boots, oil pressure sender, an odd-ball fuel injector, the small o-rings on the injectors with viton ones from CIS, and a few more fuel/vapor lines. The clutch disk still had plenty of pad left and the pressure plate was in good shape. Reinstalling the transmission drive shaft into the clutch disk was bound until I activated the clutch while pressing on the shaft where it slipped right in.

Re-examining the trigger points of the distributor revealed that the connector of the replacement part I had installed from the stalling incident had not been properly seated to the metal frame. It appears to be an aftermarket factory defect because I could not reinstall the connector without damaging the connector or the lead wires. I resorted back to the original trigger points from the stalling problem. I cleaned them and ran brown paper bag across the points to polish them clean before verifying the resistance was good. The conclusion from the troubleshooting of the stalling was wrong - the trigger cam rubbing blocks were not worn. More likely is that the trigger points were contaminated preventing firing of the injectors.

I've parted out 4 Type 4's now, so it felt good to finally reinstall an engine and revive one.